Betty Loves Blogging

Tourist traps and ‘orphan’ cages

by Ashlee on May 2, 2013

in Cambodia

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I would never sign up for an orphanage tour. But when I went to visit Tonlee Sap, I got tourist-trapped into a rip off boat tour that included a stop at an orphanage scam. It sucked for the tourists, but it is the children who were the ones suffering the most (and the whole scam wasn’t exactly painting a great picture of Cambodia for tourists either).

I wrote about it for the blog at my workplace, using the experience to open up a broader conversation about orphanage tourism and how it negatively impacts on children’s access to their rights and what policy approaches could help.

Read it here.

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Donations

by Ashlee on April 29, 2013

in Cambodia,photos

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Donation box near Buddhist shrine, Angkor Wat.

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Templemania 2013

by Ashlee on April 29, 2013

in Cambodia

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 Angkor Wat at sunrise

So, obviously I went to Siem Reap to see the Angkor temples. I’m not going to give you some tour guide or history lesson on them, there are plenty of other places you can find that on the internet.

All I can say is wow, they truly were amazing. The size and scope of the ancient city, the workmanship, carving and construction, and last but certainly not least, the beauty. I found it fascinating, and yes, I did feel a bit Tomb Raider, but in most places it was like a screening of Indiana Jones and the 5000 Korean Tour Buses. But even though it is heavily touristed, I still enjoyed it and I’m really glad I went.

I literally took a bajillion photos so I will only share some here, but the rest are in this Flickr set.

IMG_3083Angkor Wat

IMG_3192Bayon

IMG_3243Tomb Raider temple, or Ta Prohm

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 Banteay Srei temple

IMG_0086Ta Prohm

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Banteay Srei

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Lights out in Siem Reap

by Ashlee on April 29, 2013

in Cambodia

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This chalkboard greeted me at my hostel when I arrived in Siem Reap — and three days later the power still wasn’t back on!

It was so damn hot the week I was there too! Plus my room was up four flights of stairs. One night it was so hot I slept on the tiled floor and woke up covered in bruises and bites.

There were rolling blackouts, so certain parts of town had power at certain times only – Pub Street, for example, was obviously powered by night. Though sometimes it would just conk out. A handful of places had generators (unfortunately not my hostel) so it was all pretty sweaty all over town. The Blue Pumpkin cafe, which had a generator, was totally packed out. I squeezed in there a couple of times for icecream and air con — it was absolutely necessary for survival (and delicious).

There was something quite ambient about it though – a town running by candlelight – and it did remind me of the numerous blackouts we had in Timor-Leste.

It was certainly a memorable part of my Cambodia trip.

There’s some media coverage of the great Siem Reap blackout of 2013 here, here and elsewhere.

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Cooking up a storm

by Ashlee on April 29, 2013

in Cambodia,Food,photos

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Women cook at an outdoor seafood barbeque restaurant in Siem Reap, Cambodia. Special safety bonus points for having a gas stove set up on a plastic chair.

 

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Cambodia

by Ashlee on April 27, 2013

in Cambodia

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In the tiny tiny window I had between finishing work in Jakarta and starting work in Canberra I decided to take a four day holiday to Cambodia. Yes, that is a bit of an insane thing to do in the midst of an international move, but hey, I’m insane.

My arrival in Siem Reap coincided with a city wide electricity shortage thanks to a truck running down 11 power poles that connect Siem Reap to its Thailand-based power supplier. And it was incredibly hot as well. So my Siem Reap trip was a sweaty, dark time. But I got to see the Angkor temples, my main reason for going, and still had an enjoyable (sweaty) time. I’ll try to write some blog posts about the trip now, even though it was more than a month ago.

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Moved and unpacked.

by Ashlee on April 27, 2013

in Australia,Canberra

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I’ve moved back to Canberra. So far it is going pretty nicely and I’m feeling pretty content. I’ve settled back in to work, I’ve made my little rented flat pretty, I’m going for walks every day, even though it is already getting very cold.

It’s a very different life from Jakarta indeed. Pottering around and baking instead of being in the car or on the back of a motorcycle or sipping drinks in fancy bars.

Out of the past five years, I’ve spent just under a third of that time in Australia. I hope maybe I can convince myself to be in one place for a while now, taking a break from my old habit of moving countries in the blink of an eyelid. I signed a lease, so I guess that’s a step towards laying roots.

But there is always so much out there to see, that’s the real trouble. I should probably start just going on holidays to places though, like a normal person on leave from a job for a vacation, instead of moving around.

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Makan dulu.

by Ashlee on February 9, 2013

in Indonesia,Yogyakarta

Yogyakarta

Yogyakarta

Yogyakarta

People eating at food stalls at the front of Pasar Bringharjo, Jl Malioboro, Yogyakarta.

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As regular readers of this blog may have noted, I've moved around a lot in the past few years. Changing jobs, changing housing, changing countries. It has been wonderful and amazing and sometimes exhausting.

I'm about to move again, this time back to Canberra for work.

There's something that all these moves have taught me.

That something is… all the places I have lived have been great, but they seem even more amazing once I've made the decision to leave them.

The urgency of having limited time left in a place makes you appreciate things more and makes you realise how much you haven't seen yet. The complacency you feel when you live in a place permanently (or even semi-permanently) suddenly vanishes and you realise just how lucky you are to be in the place you are about to leave.

There's also a flood of nostalgia. You are slapped with the memories of certain places and certain events over and over and you think 'awww, remember that time? Wasn't that amazing?'

As soon as I have the next plan worked out, the plane ticket out, things suddenly appear so different. All of a sudden, the sea I drove past every day to work in Dili was sparkling and even more blue. The cheap fried noodle stall around the corner in Jakarta takes on a weighty significance. The dingy cocktail bar you've drank in so many times is suddenly some sort of limited experience you need to grasp as much as you can of before your flight leaves town. You suddenly realise how many museums and galleries there are in Washington DC and Canberra. You look at the beauty of Sydney Harbour and the beaches that you barely ever went to because a 20 minute drive seemed like an effort and you smack yourself for your own foolishness.

And the hardest part of all is the people — even though the people are often transient, just like you, and you know you will (hopefully) see them again and you're all connected on Facebook, etc. But you won't see them in the same time and place, in the same bar, in the same cafe, eating fried rice from that same roadside stall, carving pumpkins in that same leafy suburbia. You can't recreate exactly what a place was before, even if you move back.

I've been pretty lucky to live in places that I have found hard to leave and to have met so many wonderful people. This is certainly no lament about that.

Sometimes people think people who move around a lot are trying to escape something. Maybe some of them are. But it's hard to have made your home in many places. And even those of us who move often forget just how hard it is to say goodbye until we've already made the decision to pack our bags.

 

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Flowers from Cikini

by Ashlee on February 7, 2013

in Indonesia,jakarta,photos

Flowers

A few weeks back, I went for a walk to Cikini flower market (near Cikini train station), where I bought these beautiful blooms. I then went for a walk to Bakoel Koffie and it was all very lovely.

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Water palace, Yogyakarta (again!)

by Ashlee on February 7, 2013

in Indonesia,Yogyakarta

Yogyakarta

Yogyakarta

I’ve been to Taman Sari (the water palace) in Yogya so many times now I could barely be stuffed to even use my camera. But it is a pretty amazing place — so ancient.

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Becak life

by Ashlee on February 7, 2013

in Indonesia,Yogyakarta

Becak Yogya

A becak in the streets of Yogyakarta. Riding a becak is a pretty cool way to travel – so relaxing, such a nice pace.

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The watch tower

by Ashlee on February 7, 2013

in Indonesia,photos,Yogyakarta

Yogyakarta

Young people sit in the window ledge of an old building in the Keraton area, Yogyakarta.

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Cagey

by Ashlee on February 7, 2013

in Indonesia,photos,Yogyakarta

Yogyakarta

Bird cages on the street in Yogyakarta.

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Macet & banjir

by Ashlee on January 3, 2013

in Indonesia,jakarta

Macet dan banjir: the Jakarta wet season story. There ain’t nothing like wading through knee deep dirty sewer water because you can’t get a cab because they are all stuck in the traffic jam….

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