Betty Loves Blogging

From the category archives:

Bogor/Puncak

A couple more street shots taken on our way back from the tea plantation the other day.  Quality a bit shonky due to being shot through car windows or while speeding along in a traffic lane that our driver seemed to create all by himself.

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Puncak Pass fog

Cloud in the trees, Puncak Pass

We went to Puncak the other day, up to Gunung Mas Tea Plantation.  It was wonderful to wander around in the cool tropical mountains, watching the wind rustle the tea leaves while breathing in the fresh air… drinking some tea.

It was pretty quiet up there, and it seemed like the factory was closed and there weren’t many people picking tea, probably because of the holidays, but it was a lovely day.

Anyway, pictures.

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I promised photos of animals at Taman Safari, and I forgot to post.

Can’t be bothered to post most of them…

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That’s one of my favourites.  I chucked them in a Flickr set, so if you are in to animals, truck on over to here.

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Street life…

by Ashlee on December 8, 2008

in Bogor/Puncak, Indonesia, jakarta escapes, photos

Some photos taken on our journey to Taman Safari in Bogor.  Sorry about the mix of black and white, normal colour and super colour, I was being indecisive… most of these were taken from the car… at least macet (traffic jams) are good for something.

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My favourite photo of the day… a kid selling us bananas and carrots to feed to the animals at the Safari Park.  The bananas were pretty yummy, we ate a lot of them ourselves!  The whole road leading up to the zoo was yellow and orange with banana and carrot sellers, and most of the stalls were manned by children.  There’s something about the look on his face in this photo that gets to me…

More street shots:

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There were goats out and about everywhere this weekend, but there won’t be today, because today is Idul Adha, the Muslim holiday where goats get the chop, then everyone has a big meal of them…

Non-sacrificial animal photos to come later…

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Surprise food

by Ashlee on October 3, 2008

in Bogor/Puncak, Indonesia, travels, yum yums

There’s nothing better than surprise food, in my humble opinion.  Surprise food is the kind of food that comes presented in a way so that you don’t quite know what’s inside.

I first became a fan of surprise food back at the tender age of 16 when I was on a school trip in Vietnam.  We went to a great little cafe in Hoi An where a dish was delivered to our table wrapped in banana leaves.

What could be inside?

SURPRISE FOOD!  Inside was the most beautiful fish cooked in chili and lemongrass.

When I was in Eastern Europe, there was a very special sub-set of surprise food, which I called “surprise meat”.  Surprise meat popped up everywhere.  Something that looked like a perfectly normal potato would have pork inside.  A potato pancake would have surprise bacon in the middle.  A bread roll that you bought from a street vendor would have a surprise meatball in the middle. It was an exciting time, especially after my six months of nearly-vegetarianism in the UK.

In Sydney, ordering dosa from my favourite Indian place, Maya, was also an exercise in surprise food.  Instead of asking what things were on the menu, I would confidently just point at a combination from the dosa list, and then be surprised when ripping into the pancake to find spinach and cheese or chickpeas.  It was always good.

Or getting a mixed plate of dumplings at a Chinese restaurant!  Too good!

So, when I was in Bogor yesterday, I saw a banana leaf-wrapped dish and immediately ordered it.  These kinds of dishes are like Christmas!  It’s so exciting.

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What could be inside?  I pulled out the toothpicks, unfurled the leaves and discovered…

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SURPRISE! Salted fish in curry! It was pretty yummy. Very salty fish though.

But I had this yummy Strawberry drink to wash it down.

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Very agreeable.  But in Indonesia, I’ve noticed there is also this thing called “surprise additional sugar”.  Everything sweet has added sugar on top of its normal sweetness.  For example, you ask for a coffee, and it comes out already very sweet, with three huge sachets of sugar sitting next to the plate (the sachets of sugar here are always at least two teaspoons in size, if not three or four).  When you order a fresh fruit juice, there is always extra sugar in it.  You can tell.

This drink had a fair whack of surprise additional sugar in there.  But it had been a busy day, so I didn’t care too much.

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A day in Bogor

by Ashlee on October 3, 2008

in Bogor/Puncak, Indonesia, travels

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Because the Sumatra trip was off, I decided to head out to Bogor for the day on the train. I was going to maybe stay in Bogor and keep travelling, but I will explain why I ended up just going for the day down below…

Train to Bogor

I ended up on a good train on the way there… it was about a two hour trip. It had air conditioning. Not enough seats though.

The scenery was interesting… heading out through Jakarta, through the fringes of the city, to the semi-rural areas where there were small patches of rice paddies and tea crops, through smaller villages where the houses were stacked up close to the train tracks.

Bogor station was extremely crowded. When we arrived, the train doors opened on both sides and we had to make the big jump down out of the train carriage, as there weren’t proper platforms. We then had to walk across the tracks to get to the exit.

There were food stalls crowded on the platform and markets outside the station, teaming with crowds and taxis and ojeks trying to make their way through. Lots of beeping horns.

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It was cool though. There were lots of little warung (street food) places… lots of life.
There were also lots of stalls selling rabbits in Bogor. I saw about three or four. I don’t know whether they were selling them for eating or for pets.

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So I had come to Bogor mostly to check out the Botanic Gardens (kebun raya) there, because they got big ups in things I had read about the place, so I started walking off in that direction.

While I was waiting to cross a road though, a woman and I were both standing there, when all of a sudden the piece of concrete we were standing on just crumbled and gave way to an open sewer! We both screamed and fell… luckily I only had one foot on the piece that broke away, and the woman’s husband grabbed her (so that’s what they are useful for then…), but she lost her shoe to the sewer (lucky for her, there was a street seller with thongs not far away) and I cut up all my leg. It was bleeding and had scratches and little cuts all over it, but I was so shocked by the ordeal that I just kept going to the gardens as if nothing had happened. I was just grateful I didn’t take a swim in shit!

When I got to the gardens and looked at it, I realised it was fairly badly cut up, but the cuts were clotting up so I was like “meh, she’ll be right mate” and carried on my merry way.

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The gardens were very pretty, with lots of beautiful ferns. They were pretty crowded though because of the holidays.

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There was also a zoological museum in the gardens which had lots of stuffed animals. I always find those sorts of things slightly creepy. Next door, I spotted this scary looking door…

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Taxidermi, eh?

So I wandered around the gardens for a while… got a glimpse of Istana Bogor (a presidential palace favoured by Sukarno) across the lake… chilled out under a tree. On my wanders (my camera in hand of course) a man came up to me, pulled my arm and said hello miss… photo… anak-anak (children)… he wanted me to take a photo of his family.

The kids were so cute and all clamoured to get in front of the camera… I didn’t know the right word to say when you pose for a photo in Indonesia, so I just went tiga… dua… sato (3, 2, 1) and they all smiled and waved. Then I showed them the picture of themselves on the back of the camera, which sparked a huge amount of laughter, and they all waved goodbye. It was a bit strange because it wasn’t like they wanted prints or it sent to them I don’t think, but the kids seemed to think it was fun anyway. Very cute.

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It was really hot so I went to get lunch… I saw a sign for a “gallery, café, resto”, so headed down some back streets to find that. It was called Gumati, and had an amazing view over the red rooves of Bogor and a view of Mount Salak (thanks Google for giving me the name of the mountain). Though it was hidden a bit in
the smog and fog.

Will write about the food in a separate post.

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After lunch, I just went for a wander around. It was quite pretty, lots of greenery (something which Jakarta lacks)… then I headed back to the station, where I bought a ticket on the economy train back to Jakarta, for Rp 2500 (25 cents).

It was an extra bargain considering it basically bought you a ticket to a theatrical show as well, watching the comings and goings on the train.
The train had no doors… luckily or the heat would have been unbearable. Kids were hanging out the side, faces excited as their hair was pummelled by the wind.

I was fortunate to get a seat though. For the whole journey, sellers and kids pushed back and forward makeshift carts of drinks and food, and carried boards adorned with all manner of goods, calling out “aqua aquakwakwakwakwakwakwa” at the top of their lungs.

It was very interesting.

Here is a rough list of the items that were available for sale on the train. Who needs shopping malls!

Barbie handbags, steak knives, hair accessories, jewellery, Indonesian to English dictionaries, drinks, cigarettes, small packets of plaster of paris, some sort of strange rubber contraption that was supposed to be good for back massages, dental hygiene products, tissues, food (both sweet and savoury), the koran, colouring books.

I’m sure there were more.
There were also street singers, including a whole band which moved from carriage to carriage with a double bass, bongo drum, snare drum and three guitars to belt out some tunes. Quite a feat.

Also, there were a few beggars sliding themselves along on their bums up and down the train. One of them did such a piss poor effort of pretending that he was disabled that a group of men started applauding him sarcastically as he clearly had full movement in all of his limbs, which became even clearer when he rose up to threaten one of them close to his face when he was mocked.

It was pretty funny though, I was sitting next to a grandmother and her granddaughter, who was very cute, who had her gran wrapped around her little finger, and on the trip managed to score a headband, bracelet, packet of plaster of paris, sweet coconut drink and packet of chips.
Reminds me of my childhood.

If mum and dad say no, ask grandma or grandpa.

Didn’t take any pictures on the train unfortunately, was occupied with holding on to my bags because there was water all over the floor from the shonky drink carts.

Then I was back in Jakarta at Kota station, being pushed along by the crowds avoiding pots of precariously perched noodles that women were trying to sell on the platform.

I went home to disinfect my leg, multiple times. Thank God for Dettol. It’s pretty bruised though today.

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