I know last time I wrote of the darkness in the Lospalos nights, but driving back after nightfall from remote villages in the Lautem hills down a dirt road, the lights stuck out like nothing else. After an hour or so of villages camouflaging in the dusk, suddenly there were star-sized specks of light in the distance. Tiny traditional huts proudly sported a brand new lightbulb at the front and one lightbulb inside, every light in a village turned on out of pride. In the darkness of the countryside, each of the lights were like a little marker of triumph for the government, each house also with a pin-sized red glowing dot on the front from an electricity meter.
Some days it feels like things here change so slowly, but the little red dots and tall red electricity poles are now multiplying through the hills at steady pace.